Protect Your Rug with a Pad

Your Beautiful Rugs Really Deserve Some Protection.

DID YOU KNOW that valuable area rug in your home are virtually crying out for some comfort from our walking on them?

When people start installing more hardwood flooring in their homes, the first thing many of them do is cover some of the floor with an area rug or two. Some of these rugs cost thousands of dollars, but they need their own special protection.

A rug pad designed and sized specially for your area rugs is the protection they need and deserve.

Why go with a quality rug pad? There are four reasons.

1. It adds cushioning and comfort for you.

2. A good pad can add years to the life of a rug.

3. Rug pads protect the flooring beneath the rug.

4. It prevents the rug from slipping and you from falling!

And besides a rug pad, your area rug needs periodic washing to protect it.

Don’t wait for your rug to cry out, “Please help!” It needs a pad of its own, right now. Give it the protection it needs, and enjoy that rug for many years to come. Feel free to call us, 613-232-5110 orhttp://www.peacockrugcare.ca/rug-under-pad/

#ottawarugcleaning #rugpad #arearugpadding #carpetcleaningottawa

Need Your Furnace Cleaned and Inspected?

 

 

 

 Bowler Heating and Air Conditioning
For meticulous installation, service and maintenance of your hvac equipment. Along with clean carpets and rugs, a clean burning furnace is mandatory for good indoor air quality.

My name is Jonathan Bowler. Having been in the trade for 9 years now, I’ve had a lot of experience with different technicians. One of the big problems this trade faces is that it’s hard for a consumer to know what kind of technician is coming through their door. Is this technician lazy? Careless? Meticulous? Hard-working? Skilled? Unfortunately, even a trusted company can have a very difficult time knowing what kind of technician they’re sending out. Even if they’re very good, many technicians feel stressed to work faster and get things done in a hurry.

That’s why when I started working for myself, I made sure that I would give myself the time I needed to say with confidence to my customers that everything is working exactly as it should be. I’m known by my customers to be meticulous. And when someone is working on your equipment, isn’t that what’s most important? You need to have someone who will make sure your equipment is definitely working safely and efficiently.

Do you get annual maintenance on your heating equipment? If not, these figures may surprise you. In my first year working for myself, 47% of the homes I visited had gas leaks. Again, in my first year, almost 25% of these customers had other safety issues with their furnace that they would have never noticed without maintenance being done. Some could have become lethal over time and others ending in costly repairs.

For only 99.00$ ( reg.120.00$), you can have a full cleaning and maintenance on your heating equipment by a TSSA registered and fully licensed G2 technician.

This service includes:
A complete check of all safety switches on unit
A complete cleaning of all fan components including each individual fan blade
Cleaning of burners
Check and cleaning of flame sensor
Gas pressure safety and efficiency adjustment
Visual check on heat exchanger
Capacitor efficiency check
Thermostat operation check
Visual check of exhaust and intake venting
Condensate trap cleaning
Combustion analysis on entire system
Free minor repairs (including but not limited to minor gas leak repairs, some venting leaks, burner adjustment)

Call 613-769-0490 to arrange a convenient time to make sure your heating system is working the way it should be.

Services include: Free estimates, installation, repair service, maintenance, 24hr emergency service, Over-the-phone free diagnostics, and in home diagnostics on repairs for only $99.00*.

And if you find an equal service for less somewhere else, price matching is available.

Fully licensed and registered with TSSA for residential gas equipment and air conditioning equipment

*HST extra

Odour Detection…A complicated processes.

Neural Patterns Show Odor Detection Is Like Picking Up Voices At A Noisy Cocktail Party

A team of scientists led by Professor Venkatesh Murthy at Harvard Medical School’s Department of Molecular and Cellular Biology, found that odor molecules activate specific patterns of neurons, and that the ability of a mouse to distinguish between a learned, target odor and random, background odors, depends on the strength of neural pattern overlap between the two odors.  Dr. Dan Rokni was the primary author.

“There is a continuous stream of information constantly arriving at our senses, coming from many different sources,” Professor Murthy said. “The classic example would be a cocktail party — though it may be noisy, and there may be many people talking, we are able to focus our attention on one person, while ignoring the background noise.”

The researchers first trained the animal to detect particular odors.  Following, they presented the animals with mixtures of smells, sometimes and sometimes not including the trained, “target” scent.  When the mouse licked a waterspout after being presented with a mixture containing the target scent, they were rewarded with a drop of water.  When the mouse performed incorrectly by either licking the waterspout when the mixture did not contain a target, or not licking the waterspout when the target was present, it was “punished” with a 5 second pause.  When the mouse correctly rejected the mixture without a target, there was neither reward nor punishment.

Overall, the mice seem to perform quite well, picking out the “target” with 85% accuracy.  In fact, when the mixture has only one other scent, the accuracy was very high at 94%.  This diminished as more scents were added until it bottomed out at 80% for a mixture of 14 scents.  But observing animal behavior alone does not reveal its fundamental neural basis.  It was still unclear how the mice were able to pick out target odors at all, and moreover, why was the average success only 85%.

To understand the molecular basis of these observations, Professor Murthy’s team engineered into olfactory bulb of the mice a fluorescent protein responsive to calcium ion flux.  The olfactory bulb is the part of the brain that receives neural inputs from the sensory neurons in the nose.  Calcium influx is an important player in neural synaptic transmission.  Neurons carry signals from one to another through waves of calcium flux into the cells.   Therefore, for each odorant molecule, the researchers could visualize the pattern of neurons that lit up during the test and recall phase.  Only a patch of the olfactory bulb was imaged.

Each of the 14 tested odors elicited a different spatial pattern of firing neurons.  In the cases where the mice did poor in detecting a target odor against background, it could be explained by the fact that the spatial patterns of the target overlap strongly with the background mixture.

The researchers took the analysis one step further by exploring whether the mice were getting confused because the mixture was very similar to the target, or whether the mixture was masking the target.  The incentive structure of the experiment was deemed such that the mouse behaves the same because one could not tell whether the mouse was licking because it thought both target and mixture smelled the same, or whether it was licking because it could tell there was so many odors that the target must be there even though it could not detect it.

Based on the input odor composition and strength, they computed “similarity” and “masking” scores for the mixture and target.  They then computed whether performance was more due to similarity or to masking.  The conclusion was that masking was contributing to degradation of performance.  Basically the mouse was commiting errors because when it could no longer detect the target due to the other distracting odors.

Professor Murthy says in conclusion, “This study is interesting because it first shows that smells are not always perceived as one whole object — they can be broken down into their pieces,” he added. “This is perhaps not a surprise — there are in fact coffee or wine specialists that can detect faint whiffs of particular elements within the complex mixture of flavors in each coffee or wine. But by doing these studies in mice, we can now get a better understanding of how the brain does this.”

This research was published on Aug 3, 2014 in Nature Neuroscience.

 

Moths…The Rug Nemesis!

DSCF7259When it comes to area rugs, whether persian, oriental or machine made, if it’s wool, it’s a feeding target for moths. I had previously wrote a blog about moths and carpets, of which I won’t go into such detail, but am writing about this topic again for a time specific reason. Right now it’s winter. Winter is cold. Really cold. And moths can’t live in sub zero temps. In fact this is the best time of year to take care of your moth problem at you own home.

If you see patches in your rug where the wool is gone, otherwise known as a hole, but the backing structure is still intact, you probably have an infestation of moths. There are numerous ways to kill them with insecticides, but we have to be responsible about potential damage to the rug fibers and dyes, as well as indoor air quality. (Insecticides are toxic)

If you have an unheated garage, large shed, porch or a van, roll the carpet up and put it out in one of those areas. Outside may be good, but we don’t want the rugs stolen. Keep it out in the cold for two nights to commit total mothicide. (that’s my word). After you bring it back in, thoroughly vacuum both sides of the rug and you’re done.

However, you may want to check other textiles in your home for moths, and do a thorough cleaning of the rooms. Remember, moths don’t like clean rugs, so feel free to give us a call for a rug washing quote. After our washing, we can apply a non toxic moth repellant (not insecticide) that lasts for two years. If you have any other questions regarding moths or area rug cleaning, just give us a call. We would love to hear from you.

Before and After Rug Cleaning and Colour Restoration.

One of the biggest challenges that carpet cleaners and rug cleaners have is removing dye stains from rugs. After a rug is constructed, it usually is washed in a river to rinse the oils and excess dyes out. However, in many parts of the world, Afghanistan for example, the water is in such short supply that the rugs are sent to market without being rinsed. That is why on some rugs, you spill clear water and it leaves a blue or red stain. (or whatever the rug colour is) That’s the excess dyes still on the fibre. We are able to wash much of that away and colour correct the rug close to it’s original state. Here are just a few examples of work that we have done. If you have a rug that have colour damage, give us a call…maybe we can get the same results on your rug too.

 

Red wine spill on a Qashkuli rug.

Red wine spill on a Qashkuli rug.

 

After our spa treatment.

After our spa treatment.

 

 

Moroccan rug after dog vomited on it.

Moroccan rug after washing and colour restoration.
Moroccan rug after washing and colour restoration.

Red dye bleed into fringes and white white wool.

Red dye bleed into fringes and white white wool.

DSCF7328

 

 

Vacuuming…Best Step in Carpet Maintenance

The best and foremost step in maintaining your rugs or carpets is just a doing a good vacuuming on them. The beauty of rugs and carpet is that it can hold dry particulates and keep them away from our breathing zones, but the not so beautiful part about theSebo Vacuumm is that they can hold dry particulates. Vacuuming keeps the sandy grit from scratching the fibers.

The question we get very often is “what type of vacuum do you recommend?” First of all, nothing beats the efficiency of a beater bar. Granted, there are certain rugs such as flat weaves, certain loop carpets that have a tendency to pull tufts, but a beater bar can break the weak bond the soil has on the fiber and sweep it up into the vacuum tube much better than just a suction vacuum.

If you have area rugs, periodically turn the rug upside down on the floor and vacuum the back with the beater bar. You will notice once you turn it back over that the floor will have some sand on it. Sweep it up, and then vacuum the face of the rug. That sand is what is buried deep into the base of the rug.

We have used many vacuums over the years, but have found that many of the big commercial names are just way too expensive, or the plastics break on them prematurely. Uncle Lorrys Vac Shack on Bronson Ave. sells many varieties, but we have really liked their Sebo line. Very nice to use, very powerful vacuum, and a 10 year warranty makes it very attractive. We personally use it in our home, and I have no problem at all in recommending it.  Sebo comes from a company that makes excellent quality commercial vacuums that we have used and abused for years. The Sebo canister vacuum has the same genes as it’s commercial parents. Ask for John at 613-238-3776 and he’ll give you all the specs.

Fido vs Pepe Le Pew!

Why would a rug washer be talking about skunks? Because victimized Fido panics and runs around the house. One of the worst odours to hit our noses has to be fresh skunk. And trying to get the smell out can be challenging. The odor is caused by a combination of chemical compounds which these animals can release from their scent glands when under str

ess or attack. In addition to smelling awful, the spray can cause vomiting and have effects similar to tear gas. As an interesting side note, the spray is also phosphorescent yellow, so it will glow in the dark.

The smell of skunk spray is caused by sulfurous compounds called thiols which combine to form a substance called mercaptan. These thiols have a strong odor, and mix with other chemicals which make the scent stick. This is why animals who have been sprayed sometimes have a faint odor for several weeks, because although the thiols have been mostly neutralized, trace amounts of them still cling to fur.

The formula is so pungent that it only takes a concentration of one in 10 parts per billion to cause us to stand to attention. However, while the impact may be insignificant in comparison, it’s interesting to note that the very same compounds are responsible for the bouquet associated with flatulence and bad breath in humans.

The following is sourced from Animal Planet. Many of the common recommendations, like bathing in a tub full of tomato juice, do little more than mask the unpleasant smell. The most effective antidotes are those that neutralize the spray’s main ingredients by changing them into different, non smelly compounds.

The reason that people think skunk spray and tomato juice cancel each other out is due to something known as olfactory fatigue, which is just another way of saying that your nose gets accustomed to a scent after a period of time. When your nose stops detecting the skunk spray, the strong smell of tomato juice tricks you into thinking it must have taken care of the problem. However, if another person were to enter the room, he or she wouldn’t be so easily fooled.

The only real way to get rid of the odor is to neutralize the thiols by changing them into compounds that your nose won’t recognize as being offensive. The way to do this is by adding oxygen in a process known as oxidation. When oxygen is added to the sulfur/hydrogen compound, odorless sulfonic acid is formed.

This may sound like a complicated process that only Bill Nye could successfully pull off, but it’s actually relatively simple. Many oxidizing agents, like hydrogen peroxide and baking soda, are readily available and safe enough to be used on people and pets. For things like clothing and furniture, regular chlorine bleach will get the job done.

So if curious Fido happens to frighten Pepe Le Pew, all you need to do is mix 1 quart  of 3 percent hydrogen peroxide, a quarter cup of baking soda and one teaspoon of liquid detergent and lather him up. After five minutes, rinse off your pup and he should be as good as new. Be warned: This potion may do a little more than take away the smell as it can also slightly change hair color. Also, you can’t store it in a closed container for the next time Pepe comes around because the mixture releases oxygen, that can explode the bottle.There are also a variety of commercial products available to eliminate skunk odors, but not all of them are safe for living things, so be sure to do your homework. Remember, it’s better to be smelly than sorry.

Oh, Those Fringes!!!

Ottawa Area Rug Cleaning.

If you haven’t noticed already, we love rugs. The time, skill and art that it takes to build them is nothing short of amazing. On some rugs, the manufacturer actually sews on the fringe but hand knotted fringes are actually part of the foundation of the rug. They really give the rug a finished look, a personality of it’s own. Most handknotted or handwoven rugs have the same looking fringe on both ends, however, many are constructed with different styles of fringes. Here are some examples. Longer on one end than the other, braided on one end but unbraided and really long on the other. Some rugs have a normal fringe on the end, but the other end has no fringe at all, just a flat weave finish called a killim.  I personally think it gives the rug fantastic charm and character when there isn’t perfect symmetry.

But what to do when you don’t like the fringes anymore. If it is a hand knotted rug, there are four words we always remember. DO NOT CUT THEM OFF! Ok, five words. Those fringes are the warp yarns, or what the rug is woven on. If you cut them off, the rug WILL fall apart. If you don’t like them, what can you do?  Flip the rug upside down, lay two way tape on the back of it right where the fringe starts. Fold the fringes back onto the tape and voila, those nasty strings will stay under the rug. This also allows the short flat-weave edge of the fringe to stay exposed, leaving a nice finish.  The rug stays in tack, the fringes have disappeared, and if ever you want them back, just pull them off the tape.

It’s a win-win…………win situation.

Finally a little tip. Everybody know not to vacuum fringes for obvious reasons. But many will use the powerhead (beater-bar) of the vacuum over the fringes working outward so the carpet fringe doesn’t get caught. Some reason that this is a good way to groom the fringe. However, using a powerhead will gradually weaken the cotton (or wool, or silk) and the fringes get smaller, thinner, or even completely disintegrate. So, it’s best never to vacuum the fringes.

If you have any comments or questions, please give Peacock Rug Care a call, 613-232-5110,  or south of Ottawa, 613-258-5110.

Rugs and Moths – What to Do!

You have had your rug on your floor for more than a few years. You love how it makes your room feel, warm, inviting and cozy. The sofa has been over the one end of the rug and a closed bottom end table beside it. Well, it’s been a while since you turned the rug to even the wear, so off goes the sofa and table when you notice in horror that moths have been dining on the wool. “How is this possible?” you ask, sitting over the damaged area in complete disbelief.

That scenario is more common than most people know. So what to do? Understanding what they are can help in protecting your investment. The flying moth doesn’t do any damage to rugs. But they are the ones that lay the eggs, 100-150 at a time. Those eggs hatch into larvae of which eats the rug. There are two types of moths that eat rugs. Case-making moths and webbing moths.  The larvae of both moths live in tubes that are about a half inch long, and they bury themselves in cracks, crevices or deep into the rug. And the larvae stage can stay there from 2 to 30 months.They love dark undisturbed areas such as under furnitures where the vacuum seldom goes. Moths love the keratin in dog and cat hair that gets trapped in wool rugs. They love the protein in the wool, and usually avoid the cotton foundation. The dirtier the carpet, the more attracted the moths are to it. They will eat wool synthetic blends, but never synthetic only.

So what to look for. If you see flying moths, be concerned, very concerned. Look for loose fibers on surface. Try to see if there are any cocoons, those tubes that are about half inch long. You may even notice the actual larvae squirming around.  Look for any damage to the rug itself.

So what to do. Get the rugs professionally washed. Full submersion cleaning is most effective. The rug washer can treat the rug that makes the rug taste bad to the larvae. Contrary to many people’s opinion of not ever getting their rugs washed, clean area rugs aren’t as attractive to larvae as are dirty rug buffets. Dirty rugs are a target for moths.

Every few months, do an inspection, especially in un-walked on areas. Vacuum regularly. Moths hate it when you do that. If you suspect anything, take it out on the back deck and bake it for a few hours in the sun. Flip it over half way so the back gets the sun. If it’s winter, freeze them for 72 hours. They can’t live in sub-zero temps. And finally, don’t use mothballs. They are not effective, and are bad for our health.

If you have any questions, feel free to contact Peacock Rug Care, 613-232-5110 or 613-258-5110.

You Can Clean Your Leather!

One of the services that Peacock Rug Care does not usually perform is  upholstery leather cleaning. If you are looking for Ottawa Carpet Cleaning, or Ottawa Rug Cleaning, we are the company for you . We just don’t clean leather. There are so many types of leathers and manufacturer’s specifc warranties with specific cleaners, we have decided to just give general tips on leather cleaning. So we’ve put together a few tips on how to make your leather last longer.

Educate Yourself

Learn as much about the pieces as you can, as that directly affects how you care for it. If you’re just buying the piece, talk to the person at the store about the type of leather, how it was treated, and how it was protected. If you already have the piece, check the tag/warranty for that information as well as the manufacturer’s suggested cleaning and conditioning method. Follow the tips, as not doing so can void your warranty.
If there is not tag and you can’t get any information from the store you bought the piece at, this guide can help you determine what kind of leather you have.

Maintaining Your Leather

Before we get into how to clean your furniture, let’s look at how to best maintain it. There are four big tips you should follow:
1. Avoid Extremes: Keep the leather out of direct sunlight as it clean bleach the color. Keep the piece away from fireplaces, radiators, and heating/AC vents – the high temperatures can dry out the leather.
2. Rotate: One cushion will be used more than another, so swap cushions occasionally so they wear evenly.
3. No Sharp Things: Try to keep pets, toys, keys, or anything with sharp, hard edges off the leather.
4. Vacuum: Vacuum the piece weekly with a soft brush attachment. After that, dust it down with a clean, soft cloth. This will help fight off any dirt and oil buildup.

Cleaning Your Leather

When cleaning leather you must be careful. Peacock Rug Care recommends following the cleaning method listed on the warranty/tag and using a cleaner that furniture store recommends (they usually sell it in the store.) If you buy one of these cleaners, follow the instructions on the bottle.
For a home-remedy, try this:
1. After vacuuming and dusting the piece, get a quart of distilled water and mix in a drop of liquid soap. Mix it thoroughly.
2. Dip a clean, soft rag into the water and wring it out. Wipe the leather down.
3. Dip a clean, soft rag into distilled water (no soap) and wring it out. Wipe the leather down.
4. Gently but thoroughly dry the piece with a clean, soft rag.
5. Condition the piece with a manufacturer/store recommended conditioner.
We hope that this helps you out as you work to keep your leather furniture beautiful.. For carpet cleaning ottawa or rug cleaning ottawa, call Peacock Rug Care.